Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a exclusive list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and raised to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – little-known treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
