🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.